Ipoh Girls? Nah… It’s the Food.
It’s funny how EVERY Malaysian would associate Ipoh with its girls. Those KL suckers would scream, “Ipoh mali” after I told them I’m a full-blooded Ipohrian.
For your information, Ipoh has much more to offer than just its girls. We know Penang is famous for its classic Hokkien-hawker-style food. Ipoh, however is a little different - the food has a closer resemblance to of Cantonese origin.
The drive back to Ipoh this weekend was a breeze. Only because we left KL at 6am. On a non-working Saturday.
Kong Heng, the infamous eating outlet in Ipoh Old Town
The first stop was at the infamous Ipoh Old Town, the origin of Ipoh Sa Hor Fun/Kuay Teow. Kong Heng, also known as the House Of Mirrors (because of the infinite number of mirrors on the wall) and their direct neighbor, Thuen Chun, serve this popular dish. “Which of these two is better?”, you might ask. Frankly speaking, both have the same amount of customers. Taste-wise, I can’t really tell. To avoid their tradesecret from being compromised, Kong Heng initially did not allow any takeaway orders. Thuen Chun, however allowed takeaways; and they were even more than happy to give you more soup if so desired. Ironically it is quite safe to say that the locals here choose between both shops based on customer service and not food quality.
I am usually at Thuen Chun because the stall that serves the popular Ipoh-style Chee Cheong Fun is located there. Chee Cheong Fun in Ipoh, unlike KL and Penang, is served with mushroom sauce. And again, that’s the way all Chee Cheong Funs should be eaten.
Many Malaysians flock to Thuen Chun to have their dessert custard pudding, served with caramel. I can’t comment on their custards as I’m not really into it. When you’re there, you’ll also bump in to this extremely friendly Chinese satay man. He would usually just push you a plate of about ten satay pieces; and only charges you for the number of sticks you’ve eaten. I believe that the Malays make better satays than everyone else. Or maybe it’s just me.
Ipoh Sa Hor Fun
How times flies. Before you realize, it’s already time for brunch. So, we headed to a street off Kampar Rd. to buy their Curry Chicken Bun. This was my first time eating them, even though I’ve spent more than 20 years in Ipoh. Mum told me the bun was so huge before, that you need to have someone to share it with you. For dinner.
If you’re from out of town, you’re most likely to stuff the bun into your gap… like what every Malaysians would normally do. Well, this is the only time when civilized Western bun-eating habits pay off in Malaysia.
You are NOT to bite the bun.
The hidden jewel in a Curry Chicken Bun
Now that the alluminium foil is out of the way, it’s time to savor the chicken curry. After staring at the mean little bugger, you peel a piece of the bun and dip it into the curry sauce. There’re bits and pieces of chicken meat (with bones intact) and potatoes. The curry is fragrant. And it seems to go exceptionally well with the bun. This combination, however is different from the remaining overnight curry you used to eat with Gardenia bread loaf.
Let me introduce you to my friend, “Wong Fei Hung” (黃飛鴻). His trademark is in his clothes: bright red-colored shirt and baggy green pants. Proudly flaunting two newspaper cuttings of his famous kachang puteh and few giant bags of various deep fried crackers and peanuts behind his motorbike, this friendly Indian man, who by the way speaks Chinese better than you and me, has been selling kachang puteh for many many years. In fact he’s the second Wong Fei Hung generation that sells kachang puteh in Ipoh Garden. Mum and Dad used to get their dose of kachang puteh from his dad when they were kids. He generously gives away kachang puteh samples to everyone who walks past his little stall; and it’s difficult resisting as they are really tasty and most importantly, crunchy. Oh, he fries the kachang puteh himself.
Wong Fei Hung and his infamous kachang puteh
The Salted Baked Chicken (鹽烤雞) specially sold in Aun Kheng Lim is not easily found in many parts of the world (including Malaysia). Universally, the chicken, wrapped in grease-proof paper is baked on a clay filled with salt in a flame oven. This shop, however introduced Chinese herbs (mainly Chinese Angelica Root a.k.a. 當歸) into their recipe, giving it a more glamorous twist to an already popular dish. The natural flavor of the chicken is not compromised in this unique infusion, as the roots were still heavily flavored when I took a bite at them.
They also serve a variety of chicken types such as the sweeter and leaner textured kampung chicken, which of course is priced higher. Aun Kheng Lim’s infamous Salted Baked Chicken starts from $15 for the entire bird.
Salted Baked Chicken
I’m finishing off my little eating tour of Ipoh by revealing a well-known area where “Chicken Beansprouts” (芽菜雞) is served. The sight of tour buses is very common here as tourists throng the streets to discover the hidden secrets of Ipoh-grown beansprouts. The beansprouts here are noticeably “fatter” in shape (and crunchier). It is believed that the hardness of the water in the state contributes to this “natural phenomenon”.
There are about 4-5 shops along that junction. The most popular shop is Lou Wong. This is where all tour buses would take their tourists to. The alternative is Ong Kee. Personally I prefer Ong Kee. There was a history of complaint to the newspaper that Lou Wong delibrately charged a customer about RM100+ for their meals on a Chinese New Year.
Ipoh-grown Beansprouts
The other half of the menu… Steamed Chicken in a secret combination of soy sauce and sesame oil.
That concludes my little eating tour of Ipoh. I’d like to suggest this site if you require further reading on the activities to do this little city.
Here is my parting advice: If you’re planning to drive here, please be careful as the roads are rediculously-filled with reckless motorcycle riders.
If any special information is needed on the whereabouts of the red light district in Ipoh, please leave a message on my Chatterbox.
Happy Eating!
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IMPORTANT ADDRESSES TO REMEMBER
Aun Kheng Lim Salted Baked Chicken
24 Theatre Rd.
Ipoh
Phone: +605 254 2998
Kong Heng Sa Hor Fun
75 Leech St. (Jln. Bandar Timah)
Ipoh
Lou Wong Chicken Beansprouts
49 Yau Tat Shin Rd.
Ipoh
ipoh looks like a nice place to visit, hope i’ll get to go there one day..
Comment by Wuching — November 21, 2005 @ 11:38 am
i prefer onn kee nga choi kai.. taste better…
Comment by alicia — November 21, 2005 @ 11:39 am
been there for a short trip.
your post make me drops my saliva all on the ground
Comment by kenny lee — November 21, 2005 @ 1:02 pm
Hi, it’s indeed true that ipoh food is delicious. Especially all those that you’ve mentioned. You sure miss those now that you are in Australia, ya?
Comment by Name — November 21, 2005 @ 1:16 pm
Hi, it’s indeed true that ipoh food is delicious. Especially all those that you’ve mentioned. You sure miss those now that you are in Australia, ya?
Comment by Samm — November 21, 2005 @ 1:17 pm
oh man. hungry.
Comment by minishorts — November 21, 2005 @ 2:07 pm
Goodness, you covered the base very well! I am from Ipoh too. Now you made me miss my hometown… I have not been back for close to two years! Time to pay a homage to the chicken rice and bao and kacang puteh and…
Comment by Raz — November 21, 2005 @ 2:51 pm
My granddad used to take us to Ipoh, travelling ~3hours in the car just for the Foo Shan Dim Sum… Dad took me there for authetic cantonese food when I went back..
Yeah, Darryl you are right.. people only think Ipoh “produces” leng lui.. actually, they are famous for their canton style chinese food.. ekekek
I never regret travelling so far with my family for a meal in Ipoh. =P
Comment by cynthia — November 21, 2005 @ 4:38 pm
Wah, looks delicious and heavenly. Must try next time.
BTW, when are you going to write a review about Ipoh leng luis?
Comment by Jacky — November 21, 2005 @ 4:57 pm
Thank you all for dropping by. Appreciate it.
Now, on to some personal response:
Wuching: Ipoh’s a little laidback. Unlike the big KL city, no expressways are needed to go from place-to-place. :)
Alicia: I was expecting rotten apples outside my apartment this morning when I woke up. I haven’t eaten in Lou Wong before, actually. Some say it’s too commercialized.
Kenny Lee: It’s time to come back here to experience good food.
Samm: I’m on an eating spree now that I’m back for a short break. :) Let’s hope the plane can take off when I’m back.
Minishorts: You need a companion when you come down to Ipoh? :)
Raz: It’s time to go back! :) Food portions are shrinking as we speak.
Cynthia: Yes, Foh San used to be good; but unfortunately not too much anymore. Stick with the HK-style Yamchar in Perth. It’s hell lot better than the ones we have in Ipoh now. Malaysians are willing to travel VERY far for food, as long it taste good and most importantly cheap (CHEAP, no room for “reasonable”). Where are you from?
Jacky: It’s disappointing that the girls in Ipoh are not as pretty as one would expect anymore. The cream of the crop have all fled to the big city. Coincidentally we have a superb Ipoh hottie among you commenters: Alicia.
Comment by Darryl — November 21, 2005 @ 6:50 pm
woi! you left out Pak Kok Thing kon loe min!! How could you?? Or you are not privy to its existence, like I wasn’t either up until a few short months ago?
Comment by bunnywunny — November 23, 2005 @ 3:20 am
Bunnywunny: Now now… where on earth is “Pak Kok Thing”? I’ve heard of “Toong Goo Ting” though. Is this something new that came out during the 4 years while I’m away?
Comment by Darryl — November 23, 2005 @ 3:58 am
you’ve either been living in Tempurungland or ….wait till i balik Malaysia lah. I’ll enlighten you personally. what a disgrace to be an Ipohite and not know where Pak Kok Thing kon loe min is …:P
Comment by bunnywunny — November 24, 2005 @ 2:29 am
Bunnywunny: What to do? No pretty bunnies to take me hopping round Ipoh. :)
Comment by Darryl — November 24, 2005 @ 3:36 am
Im from small town Bagan Serai.. just 30-40min North of Taiping. =) I born in Taiping, spending my life 15 years in Bagan Serai.. then went to Taiping for high school.. =) Oh yeah, I dunno why everyone says Perth HK-style dim sum nice? I tried Melbourne HK dim sum.. lotsa variaties…=)
Comment by cynthia — November 27, 2005 @ 2:52 am